What is the deal with intriguing ceramic heads on every balcony, how is a frozen dessert in combination with warm pastry considered breakfast, and what Sicilian city is deemed the most conquered city in the world? Today, we’re diving into the vibrant and delicious world of Sicily, the Mediterranean jewel that’s sure to tickle your senses and capture your heart!
Trapani & Erice
Trapani
The town is famed for its saltpans, where windmills and salt mounds create a surreal landscape. They are operational since ancient times. At the end of the narrow strip of coast, you can find a symbol of the city – Torre di Ligny watchtower, which was built during Spanish rule to defend against raids. Walk by Cattedrale di San Lorenzo to Palazzo Senatorio and next to it stand the oldest city gates Porta Oscura with one of Europe’s oldest astronomical clocks Torre dell’Orologio. Close by you’ll find Fontana di Saturno with the statue of the mythical founder of Trapani – Saturn. Visit to the spectacular arcades of Piazza Mercato del Pesce, a fish market square, is also a must, just don’t expect to see a fish market here. It has been moved to a new location near the docks a while ago.1
Erice
Another must-visit destination is the medieval hilltop town of Erice, reachable by a scenic cable car ride from Trapani, offering stunning views, cobblestone streets, and historical landmarks like Castello di Venere and Erice Cathedral with its bell tower. Don’t forget to try Genovesi Ericine (not to be confused with Pesto Genovese or Genovese Napoletana), pastries that originate from Maria Grammatico’s pasticceria in Erice.2
Sciacca, Selinunte, Segesta
Sciacca
Sciacca is a historic fishing port with one of the largest fishing fleets in Italy. Sciacca’s location on the sea between the two Greek archaeological sites of Selinunte and Agrigento makes it a good stopover. Indulge yourself with freshly caught fish in one of many picturesque restaurants or explore the winding streets of Sciacca’s historic center, where colourful houses, quaint shops, and traditional ceramics create a captivating atmosphere reminiscent of a postcard-perfect Mediterranean village.3
Selinunte
A short drive away stands Selinunte Archaeological Park, a once thriving, powerful Greek city including the imposing Temple of Hera, one of the largest temples in the ancient Greek world. While temples in Agrigento feature more intact columns and structures, Selinunte provides a quieter and more peaceful atmosphere for exploration.4
Segesta
An even more serene ambient, with the addition of mystery, can be found around the unusually well-preserved Doric temple of Segesta. Clues imply the temple was built by local Elymians, not Greek, and was never completed due to the war between Segesta and Selinunte.5
Agrigento, Valle dei Templi, Scala dei Turchi / Agrigento, Valley of the Temples & Turkish Steps
Valle dei Templi / Valley of the Temples
One of the highlights of visiting Agrigento is definitely exploring the breathtaking Valley of the Temples in the ancient city of Akragas just outside of Agrigento. This archaeological park features awe-inspiring ancient Greek structures and seven temples like the Temple of Concordia and the Temple of Juno, offering a unique opportunity to step back in time and witness the grandeur of ancient, Doric-style architecture.
Agrigento
Stroll through the charming narrow streets and staircases of Agrigento’s old town, where medieval and Baroque influences blend seamlessly, creating a captivating blend of architectural styles.6
Scala dei Turchi / Turkish Steps
To complete the journey, don’t miss a different kind of staircase, the Scala dei Turchi – a stunning natural wonder near Agrigento, featuring white marl cliffs that dramatically contrast with the azure waters, creating a surreal and picturesque landscape that’s perfect for soaking up the sun on a relaxing day by the sea.7
Caltagirone
Vibrant colours and swirling patterns are present on every corner of Caltagirone. When you come across a basil-holding Moor’s head (read about the story behind it in below) or a good-luck wishing pine cone on the balconies all over Sicily, it’s a good chance it was painstakingly created in one of many workshops in this city of ceramics. The highlight is undoubtedly Scalinata di Santa Maria del Monte, a majestic, 142-step staircase adorned with vibrant, hand-painted ceramic tiles, leading you to breathtaking panoramic views from the older upper town.8
Story of Testa di moro / Moor’s Head
There are many variations of the legend behind these elegant, hand-painted ceramic decorative vases. Two are most prevalent and both tell a story of passion, betrayal, jealousy and revenge.
During the time of the Moor domination in Sicily, a Saracen merchant falls in love with a beautiful local girl in the Arab quarter of Palermo, Kalsa. Their love blazed fiercely until the maiden stumbled upon a secret – her lover had a hidden family in distant lands. Consumed by jealousy and fury, she ended his life while he slept, severing his head in the belief it would bind him to her forever. She used the head as a vase to grow a beautiful basil plant within, watering the plant with her tears. As the plant flourished, the intoxicating smell of basil made her neighbours envious and they sought to replicate the bountiful fertility, crafting vibrant clay head pots with the same features as the Moor’s Head.
In the other version, the girl’s family discovers the love between a noble Sicilian girl and a young Arab. Her family punishes them both by beheading them. Their heads are then turned into vases and hung as warnings on a balcony. The heads represent the impossible love of a young couple and are always made in pairs.9
Ragusa Ibla
Ragusa is a city with two souls. It has a modern, Superiore part, and an ancient, Baroque-style area called Ibla. The picturesque charm of Baroque splendor transports you back in time. Don’t miss the chance to visit the impressive Duomo di San Giorgio, a grand cathedral perched on a hilltop, offering panoramic views of the city and serving as a testament to Ragusa’s rich historical and architectural heritage.10
Noto
Noto is a Baroque gem, renowned for its stunning architecture and elegant streetscapes that transport visitors to a bygone era of grandeur. The old town was completely destroyed in the terrible 1693 earthquake and was rebuilt based firmly on Baroque ideals about 10km from the old centre. You can admire the masterpiece of Baroque architecture of the majestic Noto Cathedral, Palazzo Ducezio on the opposite side, or simply soak in the charming atmosphere of Piazza XVI Maggio.11
Siracusa, Isola di Ortigia / Syracuse & Island of Ortygia
Siracusa Archaeological Park of Neapolis
It’s easiest to consider the city as two parts – the old historical centre island of Ortigia and the archaeological park of Neapolis, home to the stunning Greek Theater, the Roman Amphitheater, and the Ear of Dionysius, a remarkable cave known for its incredible acoustics. It was featured in the Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny film as the (fictional) tomb of Archimedes, who was also born in Syracuse.
Isola di Ortigia / Island of Ortygia
The charming island of Ortygia welcomes you with a picturesque setting radiating old-world charm. Here you’ll find Duomo di Siracusa, the famous Arethusa Fountain, and the Fountain of Diana, as well as the fascinating ruins of the Temple of Apollo, a Doric masterpiece that stands as a testament to Syracuse’s ancient Greek heritage.12
Pista ciclabile / The cyclepath & cliffs
Starting at the Monumento ai caduti d’Africa you’ll find Pista Ciclabile, an abandoned railway turned cycle path, which runs along some striking parts of the coastline with impressive cliffs and stunning views, especially during the golden hour.
Madonna delle Lacrime / Our Lady of the Tears
Approaching the city, you’ll be greeted with another interesting, somewhat controversial building, reminiscent of a teardrop, cone-domed modern, 20th-century Marian shrine, The Basilica of the Madonna delle Lacrime.
Catania, l’Etna / Catania & Mount Etna
Catania
Explore the historic heart of Catania, with the buzzing atmosphere of colourful La Pescheria fish market, and the magnificent Baroque architecture of the impressive Catania Cathedral and the renowned Elephant Fountain, symbolizing the city’s resilience and strength.
Another monument exerting strength, is a 13th-century royal castle of the Kingdom of Sicily, Castello Ursino. A short walk away is the second largest Benedictine monastery in Europe, San Nicolò l’Arena, and its adjoining, never-finished church with a surreal appearance of half-complete columns. In front of the complex, you can find forgotten Roman baths Balneum di Piazza Dante. Another Roman monument is trapped between the roads of Piazza Stesicoro, Anfiteatro Romano di Catania.
In addition to the devastating earthquake in 1693, that destroyed Noto and most of the towns in the southeast of Sicily, Catania was also covered in lava just 24 years earlier. The entire old part of town was later rebuilt in Baroque style.13
Etna
A not-so-gentle giant provides a dramatic backdrop to the city, Europe’s tallest active volcano, Mount Etna. It offers adventurous opportunities for hiking and exploring its lunar-like landscapes.
Taormina
Perched on the cliffs overlooking the sea, Taormina is a breathtaking Sicilian town known for its stunning vistas, ancient history, and sophisticated charm. Take a stroll along Corso Umberto, lined with boutique shops, charming cafes, and quaint piazzas, offering a perfect blend of shopping and people-watching. Piazza IX Aprile fronting Chiesa di San Giuseppe is particularly charming. Iconic ancient theater, Teatro Antico, dating back to the 3rd century BC, is a must-see attraction that hosts concerts and events against the backdrop of Mount Etna and the sea. Down by the beach, you’ll find another iconic sight, Isola Bella, a ‘beautiful island’, that is not technically an island as a thin strip of sand connects it to the main beach. Isola Bella is an idyllic place to spend an afternoon by the water. 14
For all you TV buffs out there: The vast majority of scenes in the second season of The White Lotus were shot in Taormina. It is also where the fictional White Lotus Resort is located, a five-star San Domenico Palace Hotel in real life.15
Messina
According to Greek mythology, the Strait of Messina is guarded by Scylla and Charybdis, two nymphs turned into a monster. The two sides of the strait are within an arrow’s range of each other (or about 3 km in today’s metrics) — so close that sailors attempting to avoid Charybdis would pass dangerously close to Scylla and vice versa. No wonder Messina is considered the gateway to Sicily. Today, ferry crossing takes just 15 minutes between the mainland and Messina.
Don’t miss the famous astronomical clock of Messina’s Cathedral bell tower, an intricate timekeeping masterpiece that comes to life every day at noon and is considered one of the largest and most complex mechanical astronomical clocks in the world.16
Palermo
The vibrant capital of Sicily is a captivating blend of history, culture, and bustling energy that will definitely leave you in awe. Wander through the narrow alleys of the historic centre and discover Quattro Canti and Fontana Pretoria or indulge in a sensory feast at the famous Ballarò and La Vucciria Markets. For a deeper dive into this vibrant, most conquered city in the world, check out our top things to do in Palermo.
Cefalù
Cefalù is a charismatic town renowned for its sandy beach, historic charm, and stunning backdrop of La Rocca, a towering rock formation. The town’s crown jewel is the Duomo di Cefalù Cathedral, a magnificent example of Norman architecture featuring intricate mosaics and captivating medieval designs.
Immerse yourself in the town’s laid-back atmosphere as you stroll through narrow alleys, dine at local trattorias, and enjoy the relaxed pace of life by the sea. During the low tide, you can walk along stone footpaths by the sea that will take you around the rocky beach where you can admire the beauty of the jagged rocks in the area.17
The White Lotus lovers will also recognize the Lido di Cefalù beach and the city backdrop from most of the beach scenes from the series’ second season.
Bonus Tips
As Sicily offers so many places absolutely worth visiting and culinary delights worth tasting, we feel we have to mention at least some of them.
Granita & Brioche for breakfast
Locals swear by the combination of granita and brioche for breakfast, or even snack on a hot summer day – but never at the end of the meal. While exploring Sicily, you should also spoil your tastebuds with Arancini, Panelle, and other extensive street food choices, or with a wide selection of pasta, seafood, and even couscous around Trapani. For those sweet cravings, try Cannoli, Frutta Martorana, Cassata, Cassatelle and Genovesi Ericine, while keeping heat away with Gelato and Granita. And aperitivo, we mustn’t forget about aperitivo!18
Marsala fortified wine
You might be familiar with fortified port wine from Porto or sherry from Jerez, but Sicily offers its own Marsala fortified wine, from the area around the city of Marsala.19
Alcantara Gorge and River Park
For a different kind of refreshment, you can explore the Alcantara Gorge and river park with 10°C water, but be wary of the crowds in the summer months.20
Castles
For even more historical charm, visit the castles of Milazzo, with panoramic views of Cape Milazzo, Norman castle of Aci Castello, situated on a rock, and Ventimiglia Castle of Castelbuono.21
Final Thoughts
So are you ready? Let us know in the comments below, what were your favorite moments in Sicily, and as always, gently tap the thumbs up for future explorers!
Sources:
- https://www.visitsicily.info/en/localita/trapani/
https://westofsicily.com/en/points-of-interest/fish-market-square/ ↩︎ - https://www.voyagetips.com/en/things-to-do-in-trapani/
https://www.mangiabedda.com/genovesi-ericine-sicilian-pastry-recipe/ ↩︎ - https://www.italyheaven.co.uk/sicily/sciacca.html
https://www.thethinkingtraveller.com/italy/sicily/towns-and-cities-in-sicily/sciacca ↩︎ - https://en.visitselinunte.com/archaeological-park/ ↩︎
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Segesta#The_temple ↩︎
- https://www.visitsicily.info/en/localita/agrigento/
https://www.bucketlistly.blog/posts/best-things-to-do-in-agrigento
https://www.voyagetips.com/en/things-to-do-in-agrigento/ ↩︎ - https://www.visitsicily.info/en/scala-dei-turchi/ ↩︎
- https://www.thethinkingtraveller.com/italy/sicily/towns-and-cities-in-sicily/caltagirone ↩︎
- https://www.sicilylifestyle.com/the-legend-of-the-sicilian-moorish-heads/
https://www.visitsicily.info/en/the-legend-of-sicilian-moors-heads/
https://www.timesofsicily.com/truth-behind-sicilian-ceramic-moorish-heads/
https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Testa_di_moro_(vaso) ↩︎ - https://www.visitsicily.info/en/localita/ragusa/
https://twogetlost.com/ragusa-ibla-sicilys-unesco-world-heritage-site ↩︎ - https://www.wondersofsicily.com/noto-antica.htm
https://www.visitsicily.info/en/noto-the-sicilian-baroque/
https://www.thethinkingtraveller.com/italy/sicily/towns-and-cities-in-sicily/noto ↩︎ - https://mamalovesitaly.com/one-day-in-syracuse-sicily/
https://www.visitsicily.info/en/localita/siracusa/ ↩︎ - https://theculturetrip.com/europe/italy/articles/the-top-10-things-to-do-and-see-in-catania/
https://www.visitsicily.info/en/localita/catania/
https://catania.italiani.it/terme-romane-di-piazza-dante-le-domus-abbandonate/ ↩︎ - https://www.visitsicily.info/en/localita/taormina/
https://www.saltinourhair.com/italy/taormina-sicily/ ↩︎ - https://www.theworldofsicily.com/en/travel-tips/the-white-lotus-2-filming-locations-in-sicily/ ↩︎
- https://www.visitsicily.info/en/localita/messina/
https://discovermessina.com/scylla-and-charybdis-legend-strait-of-messina/ ↩︎ - https://www.bucketlistly.blog/posts/best-things-to-do-in-cefalu
https://www.visitsicily.info/en/cefalu/
https://www.alongdustyroads.com/posts/things-to-do-in-cefalu-sicily ↩︎ - https://www.italymagazine.com/featured-story/dont-just-call-it-granita
https://www.giapo.com/italian-ice-cream/
https://www.authenticfoodquest.com/best-sicilian-desserts-sicily-sweets/ ↩︎ - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marsala_wine ↩︎
- https://www.sicilyactive.com/en/gorge-alcantara ↩︎
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castello_Normanno_(Aci_Castello) ↩︎