Palermo is widely considered the most conquered city in the world. Its position at the crossroads of the Mediterranean has given way to many different authorities throughout the centuries. By some accounts, around 15 different cultures influenced the city. All of these influences came together to form the unparalleled and vibrant culture, food and society that remain truly unique.
Gelato, Cannoli, Granita con Brioche / Gelato, Cannoli, Granita with Brioche
Buongiorno! There is no better way to start your day in Sicily than with traditional granita and brioche for breakfast. Locals swear by this combination, but you should also not skip croissants or ‘cornetti’ with different fillings, and a cup of cappuccino. While exploring the city treat yourself to a gelato (please, don’t call it ice cream, mamma mia), and as a mid-day refreshment, simply repeat the dose of granita. For an even more authentic taste of Sicily, do not forget about the cannoli. This tube-shaped pastry comes filled with a sweet ricotta, or – our favorite – pistachio cream.
Quattro Canti
This Baroque open square dating back to the early 1600s, officially known as Piazza Vigliena, is located at the intersection of two major streets in the heart of the city.
At each of the four corners of Quattro Canti, a three-story façade is decorated with fountains at the bottom, celebrating the four seasons. The middle represents four Spanish kings of Sicily, which were originally in bronze and later replaced with the current marble statues. Finally, in the top order the statues of the patron saints of each district of Palermo, gaze out watchfully over the city.
Fontana Pretoria / Praetorian Fountain
The dazzling Pretorian Fountain dominates the Piazza Pretoria in the heart of Palermo. Remarkably, it was originally built in Florence and transported to Palermo in 1574 in incredible 644 pieces.
The vastly decorated statues depict Palermo’s rivers and ancient Greek gods alongside nymphs, animals, and other mythological figures. Due to many nude statues, it was once known as ‘Piazza della Vergogna’ – the Square of Shame.
La Martorana (Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio), Frutta Martorana, Chiesa di San Cataldo / Martorana (St. Mary of the Admiral), Martorana Fruit, Church of San Cataldo
Just behind Palazzo Pretorio, you’ll find this majestic 12th-century relic of the era when Palermo was the richest port in western Europe. More commonly known as La Martorana, its official name The Church of St. Mary of the Admiral is a tribute to its patron, the Syrian-Greek adventurer George of Antioch, from whom we’ve also inherited the term admiral – a title derived from the Arabic “emir al-bar,” roughly translating to “commander of the sea.”
Martorana is also connected to a popular Sicilian pastry called Frutta Martorana – fashioned and shaped marzipan, that resembles real pieces of fruit. Legend has it, the emperor (or archbishop or even pope, depending on the legend) was to visit the rumored beauty of the convent’s garden, but it was not yet season, so the nuns created lifelike marzipan oranges to spruce up the place. Today, they can be seen in the windows of pastry shops all over Sicily.
Next to Martorana is The church of San Cataldo, an example of the wonderful Arabian-Norman architecture with its characteristic red domes, that curiously served as a post office for a better part of the 19th century.
Cattedrale di Palermo / Palermo Cathedral
This truly fascinating building has a multitude of different styles. Originally constructed in 1185 on the site of a Byzantine church that served as a mosque in the 800s, the church has seen many uses throughout the centuries including a mosque and a crypt. The Moorish influence is present on the exterior and it features a fine central basilica and a tall renaissance clock tower.
Highlights inside include the several royal tombs of Emperor Henry VI, his son Frederick II, as well as Roger II, founder of the Kingdom of Italy.
Don’t forget to visit the rooftop, which offers truly breathtaking views of the city.
Arancini, Caponata, Pasta alla Norma, Gambero Rosso di Mazara
It’s hard to go wrong when eating in Sicily, but there are some bites that stand out. You can never go wrong with Arancini, especially for a quick nibble. This orange-shaped, fried rice dish with a variety of fillings like ragu or spinach with mozzarella, is a perfect traditional bite, famous all around Sicily, that you should not leave uneaten.
You might think you know pasta, but traveling in Sicily, you will learn so many different shapes and sauces you still need to try.
Thinking of the perfect dinner in Palermo, treat yourself with a glass of local wine and Pasta alla Norma, or start it off with Caponata. The richness of aubergines in both dishes is amazing. If you crave something other than pasta, order a fish dish and don’t be surprised, as the traditional ones are either raw or fried fish specialties.
Bonus: Aperitivo
You will quickly notice that everything shuts down for a few hours in the middle of the day. Bars and restaurants usually reopen between 6 and 7 in the afternoon, when people start to gather for a drink and a light snack. The dinner menu is there only for the tourists at this time, while the locals meet to relax over a glass of wine or a light cocktail and some finger food. Aperitivo is a great way to experience local culture, unwind after a long day of sightseeing and work up an appetite for that 9pm dinner!
Porta Nuova / The New Gate
The entrance from the western side of the city, next to the royal palace Palazzo dei Normanni, is one of the most representative examples of triumphal architecture in Palermo, the Porta Nuova (The New Gate). It was completed around 1583 and rebuilt to its current form a century later after a gun powder explosion inside the building had destroyed the original gate.
On the city side, the facade has four parts containing marble busts representing Peace, Justice, Truth, and Abundance. The other side is characterized by four telamons which symbolise the Moors taken prisoner by Charles V during the Battle of Tunis.
Teatro Massimo / Massimo Theatre
The theater is designed to impress visitors at every opportunity, starting with its physical appearance. Opened in 1897, it lies at the heart of Palermo’s cultural scene. The five-story-high building is the largest opera house in Italy, with a capacity for almost 1,400 visitors.
The architecture includes elements of the Greek temples of Agrigento and Selinunte and even just walking the steps outside, you know you’re visiting something special – especially as these are the stairs where the dramatic final scene of the Godfather III takes place.
Mercato di Ballarò / Ballaro Street Market
One of the more exciting things to do in Palermo is wandering through the city’s lively markets, bustling with shoppers and sellers. Ballarò is one of the oldest in Palermo and surely picturesque of Sicily.
Prepare to have your senses assaulted with the authentic explosion of colours, enchanting smells of delicious fresh fruits, vegetables, fish and pastries, and the noise from the locals shouting at each other and praising their goods.
The market is also the perfect opportunity to taste some of the delicious Sicilian street food such as sarde a beccafico stuffed sardines, a variety of artichokes, panelle or arancini, and an unforgettable assortment of flavors!
La Vucciria / Vucciria Market
A visit to the Vucciria market offers a unique view of the city’s alternative side. It transformed from a traditional food market to an open-air street food restaurant during the day, and aperitivo / open-air club during the night. Stop at Taverna Azzurra for a taste of blood – “Sangue”, a sweet wine, typical to Palermo.
Final Thoughts
This vibrant, history-rich city will not leave you indifferent. It is also a perfect starting point to further explore the intriguing charms of Sicily.
We feel we also have to mention the royal, Norman palace with Palatine Chapel, the mystic Capuchin Catacombs, and sandy Mondello Beach, which are all absolutely worth visiting. What are you looking forward to seeing the most? And if you’ve already experienced Palermo – what was your favourite moment in the city? Let us know in the comments below.
As the Normans called Palermo – it truly is “The kingdom in the sun”.
Sources:
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